Palawan (El Nido & Coron) — Travel & Living Guide 2026

Palawan is consistently voted one of the best islands in the world, and honestly, it earns it. El Nido has those jaw-dropping limestone cliffs and hidden lagoons you see on every Instagram travel page. Coron has world-class wreck diving that attracts divers from all over the planet. Puerto Princesa has the Underground River, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the Philippines at its most dramatic and untouched. It is not ideal for long-term living (the infrastructure just is not there yet), but if you are visiting the Philippines and skip Palawan, you are making a serious mistake.

Quick Info

Getting There

Flying to El Nido (Lio Airport — ENI)

The fastest way to get to El Nido is flying directly into Lio Airport (ENI), located about 4 kilometers from El Nido town proper. AirSWIFT is the only airline operating flights here, running daily routes from Manila (1 hour 15 minutes), Cebu, Clark, and Coron. One-way fares typically run P4,500–8,000 ($80–145) depending on the season. The catch? AirSWIFT uses small turboprop planes (ATR 42/72), luggage allowance is only 10kg checked + 7kg carry-on, and flights sell out fast during peak season (December–April). Book at least 3–4 weeks ahead if you are coming during the holidays.

From Lio Airport, a tricycle to El Nido town is around P200–300 ($4–5), or your hotel may offer a free shuttle if you booked a nicer place.

Flying to Puerto Princesa (PPS) — The Budget Route

Puerto Princesa International Airport is the main gateway to Palawan and has way more flight options. Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines, and AirAsia all fly here from Manila (1 hour 20 minutes), Cebu, and other cities. Fares are much cheaper — P1,500–4,000 ($27–72) one-way if you book ahead. The downside is that El Nido is a solid 5–6 hour van ride from Puerto Princesa. Shared vans (Cherry Bus, Lexus Shuttle, or RoRo Bus) cost P500–700 ($9–13) per person and leave throughout the day from the San Jose Terminal. Private vans run P5,000–6,000 ($90–108) for the whole vehicle.

Honestly, the van ride is not that bad. The road has been improved significantly and you pass through some beautiful scenery. If you are on a budget, fly into PPS. If time matters more than money, fly AirSWIFT direct to El Nido.

El Nido to Coron (Ferry)

If you want to do both El Nido and Coron (and you should), the fast ferry between the two runs daily during peak season. Montenegro Lines and Phimal operate the route. The journey takes about 3.5–4 hours and costs P1,800–2,200 ($32–40) one way. The boats leave El Nido around 6:00 AM. Fair warning: this crossing can be rough in choppy weather. If you get seasick easily, take medication beforehand. During the wet season (June–October), services may be reduced or cancelled without much notice.

Island Hopping Tours (El Nido)

Island hopping is THE thing to do in El Nido. There are four standard tours — A, B, C, and D — and you can book any of them from pretty much every tour operator in town. Prices are standardized by the local tourism office, though you will see slight variations.

Tour A — The Must-Do (P1,200–1,500 / $22–27)

This is the one everyone does first, and for good reason. Tour A hits the Big Lagoon (jaw-dropping emerald water surrounded by limestone cliffs), the Small Lagoon (you kayak through a narrow opening into a hidden lagoon — kayak rental is P200 extra), Secret Lagoon (swim through a small gap in the rocks into a hidden pool), Shimizu Island (great snorkeling, decent beach for lunch), and 7 Commando Beach (long white sand beach, good for chilling after a day of hopping). Environmental fee is P200 per person on top of the tour price. Lunch (usually grilled fish, rice, fruit) is included.

Tour B — The Remote One (P1,300–1,500 / $24–27)

Tour B goes further out and covers Pinagbuyutan Island (a stunning island with a long beach and tall cliffs), Snake Island (named for the S-shaped sandbar connecting it to the mainland), Entalula Beach (beautiful but gets crowded at lunch), Cathedral Cave (impressive rock formations inside a cavern you can swim into), and Cudugnon Cave (archaeological site with ancient burial artifacts). This tour takes longer because of the distances involved and can be rougher in choppy water.

Tour C — Best for Lagoons (P1,400–1,600 / $25–29)

Tour C is a favorite among repeat visitors. You visit Hidden Beach (a small beach accessible through a gap in the cliffs — magical), Helicopter Island (named for its shape, great snorkeling here), Secret Beach (swim through an underwater gap to reach a secluded beach surrounded by cliffs), Matinloc Shrine (an abandoned shrine on a cliff with gorgeous views), and Star Beach (decent snorkeling and a good lunch spot). Some people rate Tour C even higher than Tour A. The lagoon fee is P200.

Tour D — The Quiet One (P1,200–1,400 / $22–25)

Tour D is the least popular, which is actually its charm. It covers Ipil Beach, Cadlao Lagoon (calm, beautiful, few people), Paradise Beach, Pasandigan Beach, and Nat-Nat Beach. If you have already done Tours A and C and want something more relaxed with fewer tourists, this is your pick. The beaches are less dramatic but you will actually get space to yourself.

Pro tip: Book combo tours (A+C or B+C) if you only have two days. Tour operators on the beach will haggle — expect to pay P1,200–1,400 per tour if you book multiple. Start early (7:30 AM departures are less crowded than 9:00 AM). Bring reef-safe sunscreen, water shoes, a dry bag for your phone, and cash for kayak rentals and extra drinks.

Beaches & Lagoons

Big Lagoon

The Big Lagoon is the single most iconic spot in El Nido. Picture this: towering limestone karst formations on both sides, crystal-clear emerald green water so clean you can see straight to the bottom, and kayaks gliding through silently. It is part of Tour A and is stunning beyond what photos convey. The best time to visit is early morning before the lunch crowds arrive. Kayak rental at the lagoon entrance is P200 per person. During peak season, there can be 50+ boats here at midday — try to get your boatman to arrive early or late.

Small Lagoon

The Small Lagoon is right near the Big Lagoon and arguably even more beautiful. You paddle a kayak (P300 for a single, P400 for a double) through a narrow gap in the cliffs into a hidden pool surrounded by sheer rock walls and jungle. It feels completely secret even though everyone visits. The water inside is calm, warm, and incredibly clear. Swimming is allowed but kayaking is the way to experience it. The lagoon has a capacity limit, so during peak times you might wait 15–20 minutes to enter.

Secret Lagoon

Also on Tour A, the Secret Lagoon is accessed by swimming through a small opening in the rocks at one end of a beach. Inside is a small enclosed pool surrounded by towering cliffs with vines and plants hanging down. It feels like a movie set. The opening can be tight at high tide, and the pool itself is small, so it gets packed. Early arrival matters here.

Nacpan Beach

Nacpan Beach is the answer to every person who complains El Nido is too crowded. This 4-kilometer stretch of golden sand is about 45 minutes north of El Nido town by scooter or tricycle (P300–500 one way). Twin beaches — Nacpan and Calitang — meet at a sandbar with views in both directions. There are a handful of beach bars and restaurants, hammocks under palm trees, and genuinely few people compared to the main tourist areas. This is where you go to actually relax. Sunset here is exceptional. Bring cash — most places do not accept cards.

Diving in Coron

Coron is one of the top wreck diving destinations in the world. During World War II, American bombers sank a fleet of Japanese supply ships in Coron Bay in September 1944. Today, around a dozen of these wrecks sit at diveable depths and have become artificial reefs teeming with marine life. Even if you are not a certified diver, Coron is worth visiting for snorkeling and the lakes.

The Japanese Shipwrecks

Irako Maru — A 147-meter refrigeration ship sitting at 28–42 meters. This is one of the deeper dives and is best for advanced divers. The ship is largely intact and home to massive schools of fish.

Akitsushima — A seaplane tender with a massive crane still visible on deck. Depth 20–38 meters. You can penetrate parts of the wreck to see the engine room. Advanced open water certification recommended.

Olympia Maru — A supply vessel at 18–25 meters, one of the most popular dives because it is accessible to open water divers. The hull is covered in corals and sponges. Great for photography.

Kogyo Maru — A freighter at 22–34 meters with construction materials still visible in the cargo hold — bags of cement, rolls of wire. Fascinating and eerie.

Okikawa Maru — An oil tanker at 10–26 meters. Excellent for beginners because the top of the wreck is at just 10 meters. Covered in soft corals.

Morazan Maru — A supply ship at 15–25 meters. Good penetration opportunities. Large groupers hang around the stern.

Lusong Gunboat — Only 3–5 meters deep, so snorkelers can see it too. The bow sticks out of the water. Great for beginners and photography.

Barracuda Lake

This is one of the most unique dives in the world. Barracuda Lake is a volcanic lake surrounded by limestone cliffs on Coron Island. The dive itself is surreal — you descend through layers of freshwater and saltwater that create a thermocline effect. The water temperature shifts dramatically from warm (28C) to hot (38C+) as you go deeper. Visibility is crystal clear. The landscape underwater is otherworldly — jagged rock formations disappearing into the milky depths. No coral, no fish (except the occasional barracuda) — just an alien landscape. This dive costs P600–800 ($11–14) on top of dive shop fees.

Dive Costs

Dive Package	Price (USD)
Discover Scuba Diving (no certification)	$65–85 per dive
Fun Dive (2 dives, certified)	$55–75
PADI Open Water Course (3–4 days)	$350–420
PADI Advanced Open Water	$280–350
Wreck Specialty Course	$250–300
Full-day dive trip (3 dives + lunch)	$100–140

Reputable dive shops in Coron include Dive Right Coron, D'Divers, and Rocksteady Dive Center. Most include equipment rental in the price. You need at least Open Water certification for most wreck dives, and Advanced Open Water for the deeper sites like Irako and Akitsushima.

Puerto Princesa Underground River

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. It is an 8.2-kilometer underground river that flows directly into the sea — one of the longest navigable underground rivers in the world. The standard boat tour takes you about 1.5 kilometers into the cave, gliding on a paddleboat through cathedral-sized chambers with massive stalactites and stalagmites.

How to Book

You MUST get a permit to visit. Only 900 visitors are allowed per day. There are two ways to book:

• Through a tour operator — Easiest option. Full-day tours from Puerto Princesa cost P1,500–2,500 ($27–45) per person and include transport, permit, boat ride, and buffet lunch in Sabang. Book at least 2–3 days ahead during peak season.
• DIY — Get a permit from the City Tourism Office in Puerto Princesa (P500 per person), then arrange your own transport to Sabang (1.5–2 hours by van). From Sabang, take the registration boat to the cave entrance (P900 for the boat, shared among passengers). More hassle but cheaper if you are in a group.

Tours run from 8:00 AM to 3:30 PM. Inside the cave, you will see incredible rock formations, bats (lots of them), and hear the echo of dripping water. An audio guide is included. The whole boat ride inside takes about 45 minutes. Bring insect repellent for the trail to the cave entrance — the jungle is thick and mosquitoes are aggressive.

Where to Stay

Budget (P800–2,000 / $14–36 per night)

Mid-Range (P3,000–7,000 / $54–126 per night)

Luxury (P10,000–40,000+ / $180–720+ per night)

Food Scene

El Nido's food scene has improved dramatically in recent years. It is no longer just sad backpacker fare — there are genuinely excellent restaurants now. Coron is still catching up but has a handful of gems. Here are the standouts:

El Nido

Trattoria Altrove — The best Italian food you will find in Palawan, possibly in the Philippines. Run by actual Italians. Wood-fired pizzas (P350–550), fresh pasta (P400–600), and excellent wine selection. Reservations recommended during peak season — this place fills up every night. Located on Hama Street.

Happiness Beach Bar — Right on the beachfront with your feet in the sand. Good cocktails (P180–280), decent Filipino food, and live music some nights. The sunset views from here are excellent. Great spot for an afternoon drink that turns into dinner.

AP Kala — Contemporary Filipino cuisine with a twist. This is the upscale option in El Nido. Dishes like kinilaw (Filipino ceviche) with a modern presentation, grilled seafood platters, and creative cocktails. Mains P350–700. Worth the splurge at least once.

Midtown Bakery — Cheap, no-frills bakery that locals love. Bread rolls for P5, pastries for P15–30. Perfect for a quick breakfast before your island hopping tour. Do not expect anything fancy — just good honest baked goods at local prices.

El Nido Night Food Market — Set up along the main road most evenings. Grilled seafood, BBQ skewers, spring rolls, and fresh fruit shakes. Full meal for P150–250. This is where the budget travelers eat well.

Coron

La Sirenetta — Italian restaurant near the public market. Good pasta and pizza in the P300–500 range. Outdoor seating with a laid-back vibe.

Lolo Nonoy's Food Station — Great for cheap Filipino meals. Grilled liempo (pork belly), adobo, sinigang. Full meal under P200. Popular with locals and budget travelers.

Brujita Brasserie — French-Filipino fusion that works surprisingly well. Good wine list. Mains P400–700.

Getting Around

Tricycles

Tricycles are the main mode of transport in both El Nido and Coron town. Short trips within town cost P10–20 per person (shared) or P50–100 for a special trip (whole tricycle to yourself). To get to beaches like Las Cabanas or the town outskirts, expect P150–300. They are everywhere — just flag one down.

Scooter/Motorbike Rental

This is the best way to explore if you are comfortable riding. Daily rental is P500–700 ($9–13) for a semi-automatic scooter. You do not technically need an international driving permit, but having one is smart. Gas is cheap. The roads in El Nido town are paved but once you head out to Nacpan Beach or other remote spots, expect dirt roads and some rough patches, especially after rain. Helmets are technically required but enforcement is lax.

Van Transfers

Route	Price	Duration
Puerto Princesa to El Nido (shared van)	P500–700 ($9–13)	5–6 hours
Puerto Princesa to El Nido (private van)	P5,000–6,000 ($90–108)	5–6 hours
El Nido to Port Barton (shared van)	P500–600 ($9–11)	3–4 hours
Puerto Princesa to Sabang (Underground River)	P300–500 ($5–9)	1.5–2 hours
Airport to El Nido Town (from Lio)	P200–300 ($4–5)	15 minutes

Best Time to Visit

Month	Weather	Crowds	Verdict
January	Dry, sunny, 26–31C	Peak season	Excellent weather, book ahead
February	Dry, sunny, 26–32C	Peak season	Best month overall
March	Dry, hot, 27–33C	Peak season	Hot but reliable weather
April	Hot, dry, 28–34C	Peak (Holy Week)	Very hot, crowded over Easter
May	Hot, occasional rain, 28–34C	Shoulder season	Good deals, weather still OK
June	Wet season starts, 27–32C	Low season	Tours may cancel, cheaper rates
July	Rainy, 26–31C	Low season	Rough seas, limited island hopping
August	Rainy, possible typhoons, 26–31C	Low season	Risky — flights and boats cancel
September	Wettest month, 26–31C	Very low	Cheapest but least reliable
October	Rainy, improving, 26–32C	Low season	Hit or miss weather
November	Drying out, 26–32C	Shoulder season	Good value, improving weather
December	Dry season begins, 26–31C	Peak starts	Great weather, holiday prices

Cost of Living in Palawan (2026)

Expense	Monthly Cost (USD)
1-Bedroom Apartment	$200–400
Local Restaurant Meal	$2–3
Western Restaurant Meal	$5–10
Coffee	$1–2.50
Monthly Transport	$15–30 (tricycle)
Internet (Fiber)	$15–25 (slower)
Total Comfortable Budget	$800–1,200

Honest Downsides

I love Palawan, but I would be doing you a disservice if I did not mention the things that might frustrate you. Here is the real talk:

• Sewage and drainage issues in El Nido — The town's infrastructure has not kept up with tourism growth. During heavy rains, streets flood and sewage runoff can reach the beach. The area near the main beach in town sometimes smells. This is a known issue and improvements are ongoing, but it is not fully solved.
• Overcrowding at popular sites — The Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, and Secret Lagoon can feel like rush hour during peak season. You will be sharing these iconic spots with dozens of other boats. Going early or in shoulder season helps enormously.
• Internet is terrible — If you need reliable internet for remote work, Palawan is not your place. El Nido town has some cafes with passable WiFi (5–15 Mbps on a good day), but it drops constantly. Coron is slightly better. Starlink is appearing at some resorts, but do not count on it. Bring a local SIM with data as backup.
• Limited ATMs — There are only a few ATMs in El Nido and they frequently run out of cash, especially on weekends. Bring enough pesos from Manila or Puerto Princesa. Some ATMs charge P250 per withdrawal. Credit cards are accepted at nicer restaurants and hotels but many places are cash only.
• Power outages — Electricity is generator-based in parts of Palawan. Brownouts happen. Your hotel may lose power for a few hours, especially during storms. Most decent hotels have backup generators, but budget places might not.
• Getting around is slow — There is no Grab, no Uber, no metered taxis. Everything is tricycle-based and you negotiate prices. The 5–6 hour van ride from Puerto Princesa to El Nido is unavoidable unless you fly AirSWIFT. Roads to remote beaches can be rough dirt tracks.
• Environmental fees add up — P200 environmental fee per tour, eco-tourism development fees, lagoon fees, island fees. Budget an extra P500–1,000 per day of activities on top of tour costs.
• Medical facilities are limited — El Nido has a small clinic but anything serious requires evacuation to Puerto Princesa (5+ hours) or Manila. Travel insurance with medical evacuation coverage is essential.

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